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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.