Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
